2022年4月14日星期四

Mycenae's asteroid motel

希腊有个叫迈锡尼的村庄,因谢里曼*发现阿伽门农*墓而变得有名起来。虽说有名,但还是个很小的村庄,规模也就竹下路*大小。旅游大巴来的时候到处是人,大巴一走马上恢复成悄无声息的小村落。地理上由于有从雅典出发当日来回的公共汽车,所以没有人特意在此留宿。可我相当喜欢迈锡尼村。

迈锡尼村最好的旅馆是一家叫“小行星”的旅馆。不过以我的感觉来说,较之旅馆,它更接近于“山庄”。设备比较马虎——就像希腊百分之九十五的旅馆——房间也很难说有多么清洁,但非常幽静,小巧玲珑。

“小行星”是原希腊空军飞行员及其百里挑一的美貌太太经营的。

男主人做得一手好菜,让我吃了一顿相当考究的家常风味希腊菜。他开过轰炸机,同塞浦路斯发生纠纷时因对战争深恶痛绝而被空军开除,成了旅馆的老板。有两个小女儿,都非常可爱。

入夜后,迈锡尼村一片黑暗,简直黑得不能再黑。我在阳台的黑暗中一边摸索着戳起配有米饭的海鱼,一边眼望阿伽门农山的篝火和主人聊天。他兴致勃勃地讲述着每天的生活。

“很幸福吧?”我问。

“当然,”他说,“非常非常幸福!”

我心想,能有几个日本人在被问到是否幸福时这样回答呢?

There was a village in Greece called Mycenae, which became famous when Heinrich Schliemann discovered Agamemnon's tomb. Famous though it is, it is still a small village, the size of Takeshita Road. When the tour bus came, it was full of people. As soon as the bus left, it was restored into a quiet little village. Geographically, there were no overnight stays on account of the day-long shuttle bus service from Athens. But I rather like Mycenae. The Best Hotel in Mycenae was a hotel called the asteroid. But in my opinion, it is closer to a "villa" than a hotel. The equipment is sloppy -- like ninety-five per cent of hotels in Greece -- and the rooms are hard to describe as clean, but they are quiet and small. Asteroid was run by a Greek Air Force pilot and his one-in-a-hundred beautiful wife. The host had cooked so well that I had a rather elegant home-cooked Greek meal. He flew bombers, got kicked out of the Air Force in a dispute with Cyprus because he hated the war, and became a hotel owner. Two little girls, both very cute. At night, Mycenae was dark, as dark as it could be. I groped my way through the darkness of the balcony to pick up the fish with the rice, watching the campfire on Agamemnon Hill and chatting with my master. He spoke with great interest of his daily life. "Are You Happy?" I asked. "of course," he said, "very, very happy!" I thought, how many Japanese can say that when asked if they are happy?

标题: 迈锡尼的小行星旅馆
作者: 村上春树
字数: 469
简介: 希腊有个叫迈锡尼的村庄,因谢里曼*发现阿伽门农*墓而变得有名起来。虽说有名,但还是个很小的村庄,规模也就竹下路*大小。旅游大巴来的时候到处是

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