Inokawa

我的家乡有句俗语:少不入川。少不入者，则四川天府之国，山光、水色、物产、人情，美而诱惑，一去便不复归也。此话流传甚广，我小的时候就记在心里，虽是警戒之言，但四川究竟如何美，美得如何，却从此暗暗地逗着我的好奇。八一年冬，我们一行五人，从西安出发，沿宝成路乘车去了成都；走时雪下得很紧，都穿得十分暖和。秋天里宝成路遭了水灾，才修复通，车走得很慢，有些时候，竟如骑自行车一般。钻进一个隧洞，黑咕咚咚，满世界的轰轰隆隆，如千个雷霆、万队人马从头顶飞过；好容易出了洞口，见得光明，立即又钻进又一隧洞。借着那刹那间的天日，看见山层层迭迭，疑心天下的山峰全是集中到这里的。山头上积着厚雪，林木玉玉的模样，毛茸茸的象戴了顶白绒帽；山腰一片一片的红叶，不时便被极白的云带断开。……又入隧洞了，一切又归于黑暗。如此两天一夜，实在是寂寞难堪，只好守着那车窗儿，吟起太白“蜀道难”的诗句，想：如今电气化铁路，且这般艰难，唐代时期，那太白骑一头瘦驴，携一卷诗书，冷冷清清，“怎一个愁字了得！”正思想，山便渐渐小了，末了世界抹得一溜平坦，这便是到了成都平原，心境豁然大变，车也驰得飞快，如挣脱了缰绳，一任春风得意似的。一下火车闹嚷嚷的城市就在眼下，满街红楼绿树，金桔灿灿。在西北，这桔子是不大容易吃到，如今见了，馋得直吐口水，一把分币便买得一大怀，掰开来，粉粉的，肉肉的，用牙一咬，汁水儿便口里溅出，不禁心灵神清，两腋下津津生风。惊喜之间，蓦地悟出一个谜来：这四川，不正是一个金桔吗？一层苦涩涩的桔皮，包裹着一团妙物仙品。外地来客，一到此地，一身征尘，吃到鲜桔，是在告诉着愈是好的愈是不易得到的道理啊！

走近市内，已是黄昏时分，天没有朗晴，夕阳看不到，云也看不到，一尽儿蒙蒙的灰白。我觉得这天恰到好处，脉脉地如浸入美人的目光里，到处洋溢着情味。树叶全没有动，但却感到有薰薰的风，眼皮、脸颊很柔和，脚下飘飘的，似乎有几分醉后的酥软。立即知道这里不比西北寒冷，穿着这棉衣棉裤，自是不大相宜，有些后悔不及了。从街头往每一条小巷望去，树木很多，枝叶清新，路面潮潮的，不浮一点灰尘，家门口，都置有花草，即是在土墙矮垣上，也鲜苔缀满；偶尔一条深巷通向墙外，空地上有几畦白菜、萝卜，一清二白，便明白这地势极低，似乎用手在街上什么地方掘掘，就会咕涌涌现出一个清泉出来。街上的人多极，却未行色匆匆，男人皆瘦而五官紧凑，女人则多不烫发，随意儿拢一撮披在后背，依脚步袅袅拂动，如一片悠悠的墨云，又如一朵黑色的火焰。间或那男人女人的背上，用绳儿裹着一小孩，骑上自行车，大人轻松，孩子自得，如作杂技，立即便感觉这个城市的节奏是可爱的缓慢，不同于外地。在那乱糟糟的生活漩涡里，突然走到这里，我满心满身地感到一种安逸、舒静，似乎有些悠悠超尘了。

在城里住下来，一刻儿也不愿呆在房间，整日在街巷去走，街巷并不象天津那么曲折，但常常不辨了归途，我一向得意我的认路本领，但总是迷失方向，我不知这是什么原因儿，反正一任眼睛儿看去，耳朵儿听去，脚步儿走去。那街巷全是窄窄的，没有上海的高楼，也少于北京的四合院，那二层楼舍，全然木的结构，随便往哪一家门里看去，内房儿竹帘垂着，袅袅燃一炷卫生香烟。客间和内间的窗口，没有西北人贴着的剪纸，却都摆一盘盆景，有苍劲松柏的，有高洁梅兰的，有幽雅竹类的，更有着奇异的石材：砂碛石、钟乳石、岩浆石。那盆儿也讲究，陶质、瓷质、石质。设计起来，或雄浑、或秀丽、或奇伟、或恬静；山石得体，树势有味，以窗框为画框，恰如立体的挂幅。忍不住走进一家茶馆去了，那是多么忘我的境界，偌大的房间里，四面门板打开，仅仅几根木柱撑着屋顶，成十个茶桌，上百个竹椅，一茶一座，买得一角花茶，便有服务员走来，一手拎着热水壶，一条几胳膊，从下而上，高高垒起几十个茶碗，哗哗哗散开来；那茶盖儿、茶碗儿、茶盘儿，江西所产，瓷细胚薄，叮叮传韵。正欣赏间，倒水人忽地，从身后数尺之远，唰地倒水过来：水注茶碗，冲卷起而不溢出。将那茶盖儿斜盖了，燃起一支烟来，捏那盖儿将茶拨拨，便见满碗白气，条条微痕，久而不散，一朵两朵茉莉小花，冉冉浮开茶面。不须去喝，清香就沁人心胸，品开来，慢慢细品，说不尽的满足。在成都呆了几日，我早早晚晚都在茶馆泡着，喝着茶，听着身边的一片清淡，那音调十分中听，这么一杯喝下，清香在口，音乐在耳，一时心胸污浊，一洗而净，乐而不可言状也。

我常常捉摸：什么是成都的特点，什么是四川人的特点。在那有名的锦江剧院看了几场川剧，领悟了昆、高、胡、弹、灯五种声腔，尤其那高腔，甚是喜爱，那无丝竹之音，却有肉声之妙，当一人唱而众人和之时，我便也晃头晃脑，随之哼哼不已了。演出休息时，在那场外木栏上坐定，目观那园庭式的建筑，古香古色的场地，回味着上半场那以写意为主，虚实结合，幽默诙谐的戏曲艺术，似乎要悟出了点什么，但又道不出来。出了城廓，去杜甫草堂游了，去望江公园游了，去郊外农家游了，看见了那竹子，便心酥骨软，挪不动步来。那竹子是那么多！紫草竹花、楠竹、鸡爪竹、佛肚竹、风尾竹、碧玉竹、道筒竹、龙鳞竹……漫步进去，天是绿绿的，地是绿绿的，阳光似乎也染上了绿。信步儿深入，遇亭台便坐，逢楼阁就歇，在那里观棋，在那里品茗。再往农家坐坐，仄身竹椅，半倚竹桌，抬头看竹皮编织的顶棚、内壁，涮湿竹的绿青色，俯身看柜子、箱子漆成干竹的铜黄色，再玩那竹子形状的茶缸、笔筒、烟灰盒盘，蓦地觉得，竹该是成都的精灵了。最是到了那雨天，天上灰灰白白，街头巷口，人却没有被逼进屋去，依然行走；全不会淋湿衣裳，只有仰脸儿来，才感到雨的凉凉飕飕。石板路是潮潮的了，落叶浮不起来，近处山脉，一时深、浅、明、暗，层次分明，远峰则愈高愈淡，未了，融化入天之云雾。这个时候，竹林里的叶子光极亮极，海棠却在寒气里绽了，黑铁条的枝上，繁星般孕着小苞，唯有一朵红了，象一只出壳的小鸭，毛茸茸的可爱，十分鲜艳，又十分迷丽。更有一种树，并不高的，枝条一根一根清楚，舒展而微曲的向上伸长，形成一个圆形，给人千种万种的柔情来了。我总是站在这雨的空气里，想我早些日子悟出的道理，越发有了充实的证明。是啊，竹，是这个城的象征，是这个城中人的象征：女子有着竹子的外形，腰身修长，有竹的美姿，皮肤细腻而呈灵光，如竹的肌质，那声 调更有竹音的清律，秀中有骨，雄中有韵。男子则有竹的气质，有节有气，性情倔犟，如竹笋顶石破土，如竹林拥挤刺天。

我太爱这欲雨非雨、乍湿还干的四川天了，薰薰的从早逛到晚，夜深了，还坐在锦江岸边，看两岸灯光倒落在江面，一闪一闪地不肯安静，走近去，那黑影里的水面如黑绸在抖，抖得满江的情味!街面上走来了一群少女，灯影里，腰身婀娜，秀发飘动，走上一座座木楼去了，只有一串笑声飘来。这黑绸似的水面抖得更情致了，夜在融融地化去，我也不知身在何处，融融地似也要化去了。

There's a saying in my hometown: "When You're Young, you don't go to Sichuan.". The few who do not enter, then Sichuan Tianfu country, mountains, water color, goods, human relations, beauty and temptation, a go will not return also. This word spread widely, I remember when I was young, although the warning words, but Sichuan exactly how beautiful, how beautiful, but from then on secretly tease my curiosity. In the winter of 1981, five of US set off from Xi'an and rode along Baocheng Road to Chengdu. We walked under the snow very tightly and were all dressed very warmly. Baocheng road was flooded in the autumn, only to repair through, the car walked very slowly, and sometimes, even like riding a bicycle in general. Enter a tunnel, dark rumbling, the roar of the world, such as a Thond Thunder, 10,000 people flying over the head; finally out of the hole, see the light, immediately into another tunnel. In the twinkling of an eye of the sun, see mountain layers, suspicious of the world's mountains are all concentrated here. The mountains were covered with thick snow, the woods were jade-like, hairy as if wearing a white velvet hat; the mountainside a piece of a red leaf, from time to time will be broken off by the very White Cloud Band. Back into the tunnel, back into the darkness. Two days and a night, so lonely and embarrassed, had to guard the car window, recite Taibai "Shu road difficult" verse, think: Now Railway electrification system, and so difficult, the Tang dynasty, that Taibai riding a thin donkey, carrying a book of poetry, "How a sad word!" Positive thinking, the mountain is gradually smaller, the end of the world wiped a row flat, this is to Chengdu Plain, the mood suddenly changed, the car also speed quickly, if broke the rein, a spring breeze is like elated. A noisy train city in the immediate, the streets of red buildings green trees, kumquat can. In the northwest, this orange is not easy to eat, now see, greedy straight spit, a penny will buy a big bosom, break, pink, meat, with teeth bite, Juice will splash out in the mouth, can not help but mind clear, two armpits Jin Sheng Feng. Surprise, suddenly realized a mystery: this Sichuan, is not a Fortunella? A layer of bitter orange peel, wrapped in a wonderful fairy products. Visitors from other places, one to this place, a collection of dust, Eat Fresh Orange, is telling the more good is not easy to get the truth ah! Approaching the city, it was dusk, the sky was not clear, the sunset was not visible, the clouds were not visible, all the gray. I felt that the day was just right, that the eyes of a beautiful woman were as tender and full of emotion. Leaves did not move, but feel the wind fumigated, eyelids, cheeks are very soft, floating at the foot, seems to have a few minutes after the crisp soft drunk. Immediately know here is not cold than the northwest, wearing this cotton-padded clothes cotton-padded trousers, since is not appropriate, some regret too late. Looking from the street to each lane, many trees, branches and leaves fresh, wet road surface, not floating a bit of dust, home, have flowers and plants, even in the mud wall on the low wall, also fresh moss suffused; Occasionally a deep alley to the wall, open space on a few border cabbage, radish, a clear and clear, it is clear that the terrain is very low, it seems to use hand in the street where digging, will gushing out of a spring. Many people on the street, but not in a hurry, men are thin and facial features compact, women are more than not perm, casually gathered in a pinch in the back, according to the footsteps curl flick, such as a long ink cloud, like a black flame. Sometimes the man and woman on the back, with a rope wrapped around a child, riding a bicycle, adults relaxed, children complacent, such as acrobatics, immediately feel the pace of the city is lovely slow, different from the field. In the chaos of life in the whirlpool, suddenly came here, I feel full of a kind of comfort, quiet, seems to have some long super-dust. Living in the city, not wanting to stay in my room for a moment, I spent my days walking the streets, which were not so tortuous as Tianjin, but often I could not find my way home. I was always proud of my ability to find my way, but I always lost my way, i do not know what the reason is, but any eyes to see, ears to hear, footsteps to go. The streets are all narrow, no Shanghai high-rise, also less than Beijing quadrangles, the two-story buildings, completely wooden structure, whichever door to see, inside the room hanging bamboo curtain, burning a pillar of health cigarettes. The windows of the guest room and the inner room, without the paper-cut pasted by the people in the northwest, were all set up with bonsai, ranging from vigorous pines and cypresses to majestic Meilan and elegant bamboos, more exotic stone: moraine sand, stalactites, lava rocks. That basin is also exquisite, pottery, porcelain, stone. Design, or vigorous, or beautiful, or Qiwei, or quiet; decent rocks, trees have flavor, to window frames for the picture frame, just like a three-dimensional hanging. I couldn't help walking into a teahouse. It was such a selfless state. The doors of the huge room were opened on all sides, and only a few wooden pillars supported the roof, forming ten tea tables, hundreds of bamboo chairs, one tea per seat, when a corner of scented tea was bought, a waiter came along, carrying a hot kettle in one hand and a few arms, and from the bottom up, dozens of teacups were piled high and scattered, the tea cover, the teacups, the tea tray, produced in Jiangxi, porcelain thin embryo thin, Ding Ding Chuan Yun. Is enjoying, the water people suddenly, from behind a few feet away, Shua poured water over: water into the Tea Bowl, rolled up and not overflow. He tilted the lid over the tea, lit a cigarette, pressed the lid against the tea, and saw a bowl full of white air, lines and micro-marks, a long time, two small flowers of jasmine, slowly floating tea surface. Do not have to drink, fragrance on the heart, taste open, slowly taste, say inexhaustible satisfaction. After a few days in Chengdu, I spent the morning and evening brewing tea in a teahouse, drinking it, listening to the light music around me. The tone was very pleasant to listen to. After drinking this cup, the fragrance was in my mouth, the music was in my ears, and my heart was temporarily polluted, a wash and clean, joy and indescribable also. I have often wondered what the characteristics of Chengdu are and what the characteristics of Sichuanese are. After watching several Sichuan operas at the famous Jinjiang Theatre, I realized the five tones of Kun, Gao, Hu, Tan and Deng, especially the high tones, which I loved very much, when one sang and the others joined in, I shook my head and hummed along. At the break of the performance, I sat on the wooden railings outside the performance, and looked at the garden-like buildings and the old-fashioned grounds, and relished the dramatic art of the first half, which was characterized by freehand brushwork, combination of truth and falsehood, and humor, it's like you're trying to figure something out, but you can't. Out of the wall, to Du Fu Thatched Cottage tour, to the Wangjiang Park tour, to the outskirts of the farm tour, see the bamboo, they feel weak, unable to move. There's so much bamboo! Purple grass flowers, bamboo, bamboo, claw bamboo, potbellied bamboo, wind-tail bamboo, biyu bamboo, Dao tube bamboo, dragon bamboo... walk into, the sky is green, the ground is green, the sun seems to have dyed green. Walking in-depth, and then sit pavilions, pavilions and pavilions on the break, where chess, where tea. Then I sat down at the farmer's house, leaning against a bamboo table, looking up at the bamboo-skin-woven ceiling and inner wall, soaking the green color of bamboo, leaning down to look at the cabinets and boxes painted the copper-yellow color of dry bamboo, play that bamboo-shaped tea crock, pen container, ashtray, suddenly feel, bamboo is the spirit of Chengdu. Finally to the rainy day, the Sky Gray, the streets and alleys, people have not been forced into the house, still walking; all will not wet clothes, only to look up, only feel the cool rain. The flagstone road was damp, the fallen leaves could not float, the mountains nearby were deep, shallow, bright and dark for a time, the layers were clear, the farther the peak was, the more pale, unfinished, melting into the clouds of the sky. At this time, the leaves in the bamboo forest were extremely bright, but the Begonia was blooming in the cold air. On the branches of the black iron bars, there were many stars like little bracts. Only one was red, like a little duck emerging from its shell, and very charming. There is a tree, not high, branches one by one clear, stretch and slightly curved upward to form a circle, give a thond kinds of tenderness to. I always stand in the rain of the air, I think I learned the truth earlier, more and more substantial proof. Yes, bamboo, is a symbol of the city, is a symbol of the city: the woman has the shape of bamboo, slender waist, bamboo beauty, delicate and bright skin, such as the texture of bamboo, that sound, more bamboo tone tone of the Qing lv, show in the bone, male in rhyme. The man has the temperament of bamboo, has the stanza to have the spirit, the disposition is stubborn, such as bamboo shoot top stone break the soil, such as bamboo forest crowded thorn days. I loved the rainy, wet and dry Sichuan day so much that Kaoru strolled from morning till night and sat on the bank of the Jinjiang River, watching the lights on both sides of the river fall down, flickering and unwilling to be quiet, and approached, the dark shadow of the water, such as black silk shaking, shaking the river's flavor! On the street came a group of girls, light shadow, waist graceful, hair fluttering, went up a wooden building, only a string of laughter. The black silk like the surface of the water shaking more passionate, melting in the night to melt away, I do not know where, melting seems to melt away.

标题: 入川小记
作者: 贾平凹
字数: 2777
简介: 我的家乡有句俗语:少不入川。少不入者，则四川天府之国，山光、水色、物产、人情，美而诱惑，一去便不复归也。此话流传甚广，我小的时候就记在心里，